Is Denmark the happiest nation on earth? Maybe, though I didn’t see people walking down the street laughing maniacally (yes, I was somewhat disappointed). I think it has more to do with the fact that Copenhagen, the slick, stylish capital, is one of the coolest places on earth – you’d be happy too if this was your biggest and brightest city. Think canal-side cafés, royal palaces packed with modern art, eco-conscious urban design, Michelin-starred restaurants, iconic architecture, and a statue of the Little Mermaid (come on, you know it’s on your list) and you’ve got the idea. Universal health care, a strong social safety net, excellent work-life balance, and strong sense of community likely help. Probably.
If you’ve ever dreamed of strolling along canals, immersing yourself in hygge - the Danish concept of coziness - and exploring a city that’s charming, historic, and effortlessly cool, København is calling your name. I spent two days exploring the city and wish I had twenty more: here’s my guide on how to make the most out of your grand Danish adventure. Bonus points if you track down Mads Mikkelson and can convince him to give you a private tour.
Day 1: Exploring the Heart of Copenhagen
Nyhavn -> Amalienborg Palace -> Designmuseum Danmark -> Rundetaarn -> Old Library Building -> Rådhuspladsen -> Central Station -> Magstræde -> Marmorbroen -> Frederiksholms Kanal -> Balderdash Bar -> Duck and Cover -> Restaurant Gorilla -> Nyhavn
Stroll Through Nyhavn
I skipped breakfast as I was eager to get out and explore, but I had a couple of places on my list – these include Atelier September and Mad & Kaffe. Instead, I started out by exploring Nyhavn, one of the city’s most famous and picturesque areas. This iconic 17th-century waterfront is characterized by its colorful houses and vintage boats and feels like stepping into a European postcard. A perfect backdrop for a leisurely stroll, a canal tour, or a meal at one of the waterfront restaurants. Yes, it’s crowded, but it’s absurdly beautiful. Come back at sunset, too. You’ll be thrilled that you did.
Swing by Amalienborg Palace
Next, I walked over to Amalienborg Palace, the home of the Danish royal family. I did not time my visit to coincide with the Changing of the Guard at noon, but you probably should. Inside the palace the museum offered a glimpse into the life of Danish royalty. But only a glimpse and only for a minute.
Delve into Danish Design at Designmuseum Danmark
The Designmuseum Danmark is a must-see for anyone interested in Scandinavian design, and since you’re here, you likely qualify. Designmuseum is located in the Frederiksstaden neighborhood in a historic building that was originally built in 1757 by King Frederik V as the first public hospital. The museum offers eight exhibitions where guests can explore Danish design legacy, including work by designers Arne Jacobsen, Jacob Jensen and Kaare Klint, who was one of the two architects who remodeled the former Frederiks Hospital into a museum in the 1920s.
Visit Rundetaarn (Round Tower) and the Old Library Building
I hit a pair of iconic stops next; the Rundetaarn is a 17th-century tower with a unique spiral ramp instead of stairs, leading you up to one of the best views of Copenhagen. Long line, easy climb, great views. The rooftops of Nyhavn and the spires of churches stretched out below and gave a great perspective on the iconic city.
The Old Library Building is… an old library building! It should not be confused with the Royal Library, housed in the modern Black Diamond building (also worth a visit). The Old Library Building is a great photo op more than anything else, as I don’t speak a word of Danish, though there was a great collection of maps laid out to view, and I’m nothing if I’m not a sucker for a great map.
Stop by Rådhuspladsen (City Hall Square) and Copenhagen Central Station
Lively, beautiful square with views of Copenhagen City Hall, statues (the Dragon Statue and monument to Hans Christian Andersen are the big draws here), and several historic buildings. The square is a popular meeting point and place for exhibitions and demonstrations.
Copenhagen Central Station was a quick stop; I wanted to see the grand wooden arches of the interior, but I ended up spending some time exploring and taking photos – the folkloristic figures on the façade are stunning, the vaulted ceiling off of Vesterbrogade is striking, and the entire Art Nouveau construction is appealing.
Wander Copenhagen’s Streets, Bridges and Canals
From the station I made it my mission to explore some of the canals and streets the city is famous for. I visited Snaregade and Magstræde, two of the city’s oldest streets, known for their original 16th century cobbled streets. Fun fact: Mag- is an old word for a lavatory, referring to a public latrine. How quaint.
Looking north from Marmorbroen Bridge framed up some beautiful photos; the Frederiksholms Kanal is a generally quiet area to wander as you head south and loop around toward the Black Diamond. I spent an hour+ just wandering with no clear objective and I highly recommend that you do the same. The city is positively brimming with beautiful architecture – both historic and modern – and I enjoyed the time I spent exploring without any clear objective.
Make time for Happy Hour
Copenhagen’s cocktail scene is legendary, and I was lucky to be in town on a Saturday, prime time for a drink or two. I started out by popping into Balderdash Bar nice and early; they accept walk-ins, but it may be tough to grab a seat if you come with a large group. Whimsical but not ridiculous, quirky but not pretentious, Balderdash is everything I want in a great cocktail bar. The drink list is wild; I went with a mushroom Alexander (gin, chocolate, three kinds of mushrooms, coconut cream and deer heart) and then a blackberry and sesame sour (gin, lapsang souchong-blackberry, white sesame, egg white). I absolutely loved this place and may have tried everything on the menu if there were not so many other places I wanted to check out.
From Balderdash I went west toward my next destination, Duck and Cover. Fair warning that this was my longest uninterupted walk at 30 minutes, but I felt like it was good to stretch my legs after Happy Hour the First.
Duck and Cover is lauded as one of the best bars in Europe and it’s not difficult to see why. It’s all very Scandi-fancy with its mid-century mod décor, moody atmosphere, and clean, fresh menu. The rum and rosehip was one of the finest cocktails I’ve ever had, no exaggeration.
There were several other spots I wanted to check out, but I didn’t want to sleep until noon the next day, so I axed Happy Hour without checking out these other highly regarded joints:
Bird (billed as bar highballs with hi-fidelity, acoustical safe space)
Zeppelin Rock Bar (rock bar in the Meatpacking District)
Gensyn Bar (neighborhood “dive” bar with a reputation for excellent drinks)
Ruby (hip spot in a 1740-era townhouse)
Fermentoren (craft beer bar a short stroll from Central Station)
Dine and Dash
I had planned to have dinner at Kødbyens Fiskebar in the Meatpacking District, but I didn’t have a reservation, and the place was utterly packed. Known for fresh, sustainable seafood, this restaurant, with all its glorious Nordic flair, has been on my list for a while… but I had no choice but to pivot. Next time!
I decided against spending too much time researching another place for dinner and/or walking back across town, and instead walked over to the nearby Gorilla restaurant. I’m glad I did; I found a spot at the busy bar, ordered up some clever local fare (smoked scallops and a lobster hot dog), and had a nice meal as I reminisced on a day well spent.
It was an atmospheric walk back across town to my hotel; I stopped to take quite a few photos over the many bridges I passed and spent some extra time shooting the colorful buildings in Nyhavn before I called it a night.
Day 2: More Classic Copenhagen
Nyhavn -> August Bournonvilles Passage -> Gourmet Hot Dog -> Rosenborg Castle and King’s Garden -> Torvehallerne Market -> Bootleggers -> Christiansborg Palace -> The Church of Our Saviour -> Freetown Christiania -> Broens Street Food Market -> Høst à Nyhavn
It was evident early on that two days was not nearly enough time in this stunning city, so I decided to get up early and make the most of the time I did have. That meant that I had a big day of walking ahead, but I was ready for it.
I skipped breakfast once again because I knew that I’d likely get my fill with a stop at the Torvehallerne Market for lunch, and I had a few other important snacks to check off my list as well. Namely, hotdogs.
Take a Peek at the August Bournonvilles Passage
August Bournonvilles Passage is a street marked by a stunning mosaic made of more than 3 million pieces featuring 47 figures. I’m no mosaic scholar, but that seems like a lot. This intricate piece was designed by Danish artist Ejnar Nielsen and celebrated the opening of the Stærekassen (“the Nesting Box") theater in 1931.
Grab a Hot Dog
What is it with Nordic countries and their love for hot dogs? I'm not complaining - if I see a roadside stall hawking gourmet grub, I'm going to grab one. You should too; you'll spot mobile hot dog stands all over the city.
Peek at the Crown Jewels
Visit Rosenborg Castle to marvel at Denmark's royal treasures, including the dazzling crown jewels, in a beautifully preserved Renaissance setting. Stroll through the surrounding King’s Garden, a serene green space perfect for relaxing amidst historic sculptures and manicured landscapes. I saw a lady place a bag under her dog's bum to make sure that no poop touched the perfect lawn - this is a fancy place.
Lunch at Torvehallerne Market
A short walk from the palace, Torvehallerne Market was one of the first things added to my do not miss list. This food market is paradise for any foodie, with stalls offering everything from smørrebrød (traditional Danish open-faced sandwiches) to fresh pastries. It would have been impossible to choose a smørrebrød on the spot – there seem to be an infinite variety of this specialty – but luckily (or unluckily) there were lines at most stalls, and I had a few minutes to decide on what to go with. For the record, I had one with pickled herring, and I’m still trying to decide how I feel about it.
I spent a bit of time exploring the market – it’s quite large and sprawling and features a food hall, traditional meat market, flower market, and more. Right across the street from the market I found a craft beer bar called Bootleggers Craft Beer Bar; during my visit Bootleggers had Christian Bale Pale Ale on tap, so I had to stick around for a while.
Palace Experience Part Deux
Visit Christiansborg Palace to explore the only building in the world housing all three branches of a country's government, steeped in centuries of Danish history. The palace’s grand interiors, including the Royal Reception Rooms and the historic ruins beneath, offer a captivating glimpse into Denmark's regal and political past.
Does all that sound a little dry and stuffy? Sure, but it shouldn’t – the palace really is worth a visit. The reception rooms alone, in all their checkered, audaciously adored glory, are worth the visit, but I was particularly interested in the history of the ruins/dungeons below.
Climb the Tower at The Church of Our Saviour
This baroque marvel is famed for its winding staircase and the sordid urban legend associated with it – don’t worry, I won’t spoil it for you. The climb is worth it; this is another opportunity to take in sweeping views of the city, and from what I could gather the church here is far less busy than the Round Tower on a daily basis. And if you’re anything like me, you’ll learn what a carillon is and why the one here is famous (it’s a percussion instrument played by a keyboard and characterized by dozens of bells).
Experience Freetown Christiania
Christiania was another destination on my must-visit list, but your experience here is going to depend as much on context as anything else. Often characterized as a hippie haven and self-proclaimed autonomous enclave, Christiania has a truly unique and complex history. The modern history of the area began when squatters took up residence in the 1970s, and it gained global infamy for Pusher Street, its open-air pot market (cannabis is illegal in Denmark). Residents have worked diligently to push out the drug trade and retain the community’s independent spirit, and that’s the impression I was left with on my visit. I enjoyed the gritty street art, the local shops, and the social experiment air of it all. You’ll hear that Christiania is unsafe after dark, but so is Oakland; behave accordingly. And remember that photography is not permitted in certain areas – respect the wishes of residents.
Chow at Broens Street Food Market
This outdoor market features a variety of street food stalls and a sprawling beer garden. You’ll also capture some epic waterfront views if you’re walking through at sunset like I did; the walk across the bridge back toward Nyhavn was particularly beautiful.
Dine at Høst
Høst, the Danish word for harvest, is without a word of doubt one of the finest restaurants I’ve ever had the opportunity to visit. Høst has won countless awards, not the least of which include the “Worlds’ Best Designed Restaurant” from the Restaurant & Bar Design Awards and “World’s Most Beautiful Restaurant” from Travel + Leisure. Highlights of my tasing menu scallops with tomatoes and parsley, baked hake with blue mussels and dill, and cod with mushrooms and gooseberries.
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WHAT DID I MISS?
Plenty! It was immediately apparent that Copenhagen deserves more than two days, and I packed as much as I could into the time I did have. Here’s a short list of a few attractions I didn’t have time for:
Nørrebro Neighborhood
Nørrebro is a trendy, multicultural neighborhood that made my list for the presence of Bæst, a restaurant famous for its wood-fired pizzas made with local ingredients.
Assistens Cemetery
The final resting place of Hans Christian Andersen, Assistens is a beloved outdoor space far enough from the main tourist attractions to offer serenity in spades.
Reffen Street Food Market
Reffen, with its 50+ food stalls and sweeping harbor views, was closed for the season by the time I arrived, but I've heard that it's a great place to grab a bite in the summer.
Strøget
Strøget is one of the longest pedestrian shopping streets in Europe and features high-end boutiques and unique Danish brands. I typically don’t make much time for shopping on short trips, but it would have been interesting to see Nordic style in action.
Tivoli Gardens
This historic amusement park looks like something from a fairytale with its vintage rides, whimsical gardens, and twinkling lights.
Little Mermaid Statue
Did I skip what is perhaps Copenhagen’s most famous attraction? Yes. Will it be there the next time I visit? Undoubtedly.
If you can think of anything else I missed, please feel free to add it to the comments.
THE DETAILS
Currency: Danish Kroner (DKK)
- I exclusively used the digital wallet on my phone in Copenhagen and didn’t even bother to take cash out at an ATM. Copenhagen appears to be nearly cashless.
When To Go: Fall
- I’m basing this recommendation on the fact that I did indeed visit in the fall. It was busy, but not overly crowded. The weather was pleasant for wandering and walking – it rained only briefly the first evening I was there.
My Hotel: Nyhavn 71
- Beautiful boutique property in the heart of all the excitement along Nyhavn, arguably the city’s busiest area. Beautiful rooms, friendly staff, excellent restaurant on site.
Best Time to Visit Copenhagen
You’ll often hear that the best time to visit Copenhagen is between May and September, when the weather is mild, and the days are long. Summer is ideal for exploring the city's parks, waterfronts, and outdoor cafes. However, Copenhagen’s winter months are equally enchanting, especially if you’re a fan of Christmas markets and festive decorations. Embrace hygge by enjoying warm drinks and candle-lit cafes during the colder months.
Getting Around Copenhagen
Copenhagen is incredibly bike-friendly, with dedicated bike lanes and rental options all over the city. Biking is one of the best ways to explore, as it allows you to see more in less time. For those who prefer walking, most of the major attractions are within walking distance of each other. Public transport, including buses and the efficient metro system, is also a great way to get around. The Copenhagen Card can provide free transport and entry to many of the top attractions.
Uber was not available in Copenhagen in late 2024, but I hear that it’s coming back in 2025. I took a taxi from the airport to the hotel that took roughly 30 minutes.
I walked everywhere. Copenhagen is relatively compact, and part of the charm is wandering the beautiful streets. I was never more than 30 minutes walking time from one point to the next and I only used a taxi to get from the airport to my hotel and vice versa.
Where to Stay in Copenhagen
1. Nørrebro: Hip and Trendy
For travelers who enjoy a vibrant atmosphere, Nørrebro is a top choice. This neighborhood is known for its lively nightlife, eclectic boutiques, and multicultural food scene. It’s an ideal spot if you want to experience a more local side of Copenhagen.
2. Indre By: Close to Everything
Indre By, or the Inner City, is the historic heart of Copenhagen, where you’ll find major attractions like Nyhavn, Tivoli, and the Round Tower. Staying here means you’re in the center of it all, with easy access to shopping, cafes, and beautiful architecture.
3. Vesterbro: Artsy and Up-and-Coming
Once a working-class area, Vesterbro is now a trendy district full of art galleries, coffee shops, and cool bars. It’s a great area for those looking to stay in a neighborhood that’s a bit off the beaten path but still close to the main attractions.
Quick Travel Tips for Copenhagen
Embrace Hygge: The Danish concept of hygge is all about enjoying the moment, so relax in cozy cafes, spend time with loved ones, and appreciate the city’s slower pace.
Learn a Few Danish Phrases: While most Danes speak excellent English, locals always appreciate an effort to say a few words in Danish.
Respect Cycling Rules: Biking is a primary mode of transportation in Copenhagen, so be mindful of bike lanes and cyclists. Seriously, bikes are EVERYWHERE.
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