Finland gets its flowers for being ranked first – for seven consecutive years now – on the list of happiest countries in the world by the World Happiness Report, something to celebrate if you live in this wonderful country. Experts on the study of happiness (which itself sounds like the most fulfilling job on earth) cite a connection with nature, an appreciation for art, a strong social safety net, and other factors – including, of course, plenty of sauna time – when explaining why the Finnish are so happy.
But what if you’re just visiting, and only for a day or two? I’m far more interested in taking a spin on the world’s only sauna on a Ferris wheel than I am in learning how to manage my work-life balance, thank you very much. Besides, I’m sure that this magical sauna ride is precisely the sort of thing that will provide me with lasting joy and happiness. And yes, before you Google it – this is a real thing!
Do you want to know what else would make me happy? Visiting Helsinki in May to participate in Siivouspäivä, or Cleaning Day, a joyous time when locals pop up flea market stalls on sidewalks, parks, and streets to give away or sell items they no longer need. It's like a citywide yard sale and recycling event combined, reflecting Helsinki's sustainability ethos. I’m looking into how I can get a shipping container of my old junk to Helsinki in time for next year.
Can’t make it in May? Don’t worry, I didn’t, either. Rather than flash flea markets, I settled for a fall visit to experience historic charm, incredible modern architecture, hip Nordic vibes, vibrant markets and cozy cafés, and saunas. All the saunas. I had two days to explore Helsinki, and I’m sharing with you my almost perfect itinerary.
Day 1: Explore Helsinki’s Historic Heart
Scandic Helsinki HUB -> Vanha Kauppahalli (Old Market Hall) -> Kauppatori (Open Air Market) -> Uspenski Cathedral -> Senate Square -> Helsingin Tuomiokirkko (Helsinki Csthedral) -> Kansalliskirjasto (National Library) -> Kiasma Museum -> Temppeliaukio Church -> Bad Boy Statue -> Ravintola Nolla -> Chihuahua Julep -> Liberty or Death -> Scandic Helsinki HUB
Challenge Yourself at Vanha Kauppahalli
Vanha Kauppahalli, the Old Market Hall, opens at 8am. This charming indoor market by the harbor offers a wide variety of Finnish delicacies, perfect for breakfast or snacks. It’s a 15-minute walk from the hotel, so I decided to challenge myself over breakfast: we’re talking reindeer pate; bear salami; canned moose meat (they call it elk here, but they’re not fooling anyone). As a Canadian I was in my element with these wild treats… until I made my way down to a booth serving a dozen varieties of smoked fish. I’ve never been a smoked fish fella and I don’t think I ever will be. I’ll stick with the creamy reindeer liver pate, thank you.
Taste Your Way Through Kauppatori
Just outside Vanha Kauppahalli is Kauppatori. This bustling outdoor market features local produce, crafts, and traditional Finnish food… but also hot dogs. Because when you’re this far north, everyone loves a good hot dog. Enjoy a little stroll through the market, take in the sights of the harbor, and perhaps try some fresh berries or salmon. Or berries on salmon! Seriously, you won’t believe what you can try here. The harbor itself is glorious, and my view was only blighted by the sight of one massive cruise ship. As luck would have it the crowds were tucked sung in their beds and I had a nice time exploring.
Set Time Aside to Visit Uspenski Cathedral
From Kauppatori, it’s a 5-minute walk to the stunning Uspenski Cathedral, the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe. Admire the impressive architecture and panoramic views of the city and the harbor from this hilltop location. I was pleasantly surprised by how unhurried Helsinki’s attractions seemed to be; even at this grand, spectacular cathedral, there were no crowds or surging lines. Just folks happy to be out exploring this beautiful city and taking in this magnificent sight.
Experience Senate Square’s Many Highlights
I learned quickly that Helsinki is wonderfully walkable and rather compact for a major metro; most of the sights on my list were located well within the heart of the city. From the cathedral I was only 10 minutes from Senate Square, arguably Helsinki’s most iconic destination. Senate Square is special because it represents the architectural heart and historic core of the city, showcasing Helsinki’s neoclassical charm. This square was designed in the early 19th century by the German architect Carl Ludvig Engel and features several iconic landmarks that exemplify Finland’s national identity and Russian imperial influence.
A few reasons that Senate Square is a must-visit:
Architectural Harmony: The buildings around Senate Square were designed in the neoclassical style, with clean lines, grand facades, and symmetry. This cohesive design gives the square a majestic feel and has earned it recognition as one of the most beautiful squares in Europe.
Helsingin Tuomiokirkko (Helsinki Cathedral): Dominating the square with its white columns and green dome, the Helsinki Cathedral is one of the most photographed buildings in Finland. It was originally built as a tribute to Tsar Nicholas I of Russia, who was also the Grand Duke of Finland.
Statue of Alexander II: In the center of the square stands a statue of Tsar Alexander II of Russia, symbolizing Finland's ties with Russia in the 19th century. The statue celebrates his role in granting Finland autonomy within the Russian Empire and is a tribute to a time when he introduced reforms favoring Finnish nationalism.
University of Helsinki and the National Library of Finland: Senate Square is also home to the University of Helsinki’s main building and the National Library of Finland, adding cultural and intellectual importance to the square. These institutions highlight Helsinki’s role as a center for learning and education.
Events and Gatherings: Senate Square hosts many cultural events and gatherings throughout the year, from holiday markets to art installations. During the Christmas season, a large Christmas tree and market transform the square into a festive hub.
Symbol of Finnish Independence: While originally designed under Russian rule, Senate Square has come to symbolize Finnish independence and identity. Its harmonious design, historical significance, and central location make it a must-visit for understanding Finland’s journey from a grand duchy to an independent nation.
Stop by the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art
Kiasma offers a change of pace with a showcase of modern and contemporary art from Finland and around the world. Beyond the fact that the building is one of the most striking in all of Scandinavia, a region known for its rich design heritage (visit at night to be completely blown away) the Kiasma is known for its provocative and visually stunning exhibitions. Even if contemporary art isn’t typically your thing, I highly recommend a visit – if you have any extra time, I suggest seeing a show at the Kiasma Theatre.
There are several other attractions near the Kiasma, including the beguiling statues at the Amos Rex Museum (this museum is known for its distinctive, futuristic design and underground galleries); Lasipalatsi Square; the astonishing Kamppi Chapel (aka the Chapel of Silence), known for its minimalist interior and modernist exterior (think sleek wooden bucket); and the nearby Helsinki Art Museum.
Rock your World at the Temppeliaukio Church
Rock your world… because the church is carved into solid rock? Get it? Sorry, I had to. Anyway, Temppeliaukio is an architectural wonder that was designed by architects and brothers Timo and Tuomo Suomalainen and opened in 1969, though plans for the space began taking shape as far back as the 1930s, proving yet again that Helsinki has always been home to design minded folks. The grand setting, the iconic pipe organ, and the altar, built into an ice age crevice, make the Rock Church one of Helsinki’s most unique landmarks.
Dinner at Ravintola Nolla
My original plan was to reserve a table at Restaurant Grön a few weeks in advance… but I forgot. I quickly pivoted and decided instead to visit Ravintola Nolla, a zero-waste restaurant known for its innovative tasting menu. Now, I can’t say how great the well-regarded Restaurant Grön would have been, but I can say with certainty that Ravintola Nolla is wonderful. Yes, the sustainability ethos should be lauded, and the zero-waste approach should be applauded. Frankly, what makes it all work is the fact that the food is delicious. A couple of highlights for me: Deer tartar, yellow foot chanterelles and black walnut cream. Not wild enough? How about this for dessert: Celeriac ice cream, whey caramel and spent coffee. Offbeat, wildly inventive flavor combinations that should not work… and yet do. “A” for effort, gold star for execution. I’ll be back again.
Drinks at Chihuahua Julep
Only a few short hops from Nolla is the eccentric Chihuahua Julep, styled as an “Agave Friendly Cocktail Bar.” What does that mean? I don’t know, nor do I care. I do know that the drinks are awesome, the duo behind this wild Finn-Mex mashup is friendly and fun, and the speakeasy-style setup is cool. Be warned that you are not allowed to take photos, use your phone, or be seen with any type of modern tech whatsoever. Luddites rejoice! All jokes aside, if you’re coming here be prepared to talk to people like it’s the 90s.
Liberty or Death
A few doors down from Chihuahua Julep, Liberty or Death offers a speakeasy-style atmosphere and an impressive cocktail menu. The space is small but there’s a buzzy vibe here, and bartenders are more than willing to end your evening with something inventive based on a few flavor queues. However, one should not shout “lonkero!” and hold up three fingers as this is generally frowned upon.
Day 2: Dive Headlong into Finnish Culture
Scandic Helsinki HUB -> Café Regatta -> Sibelius Monument -> Suomenlinna Sea Fortress -> Punavuori District -> Park to Park -> Bad Bad Boy -> Sauna Experience -> Kallio District -> Scandic Helsinki HUB
Fuel Up Like a Finnish Foodie
Start your day with traditional Finnish pastries like korvapuusti (cinnamon buns) at this cozy, rustic café by the sea. Café Reggata is just far enough away from the city center that its quiet, relaxed atmosphere is not diminished – at least not when I visited in the fall.
This is an impossibly beautiful part of the city, and I highly recommend setting aside some time to walk along the waterfront, stroll out to Rajasaari Island, and soak in all the good vibes at the sprawling Sibelius Park.
Speaking of Sibelius Park
This sprawling green space is marked by sculptures, historic markers and landmarks, and the colossal Sibelius Monument. Dedicated to the memory of renowned composer Jean Sibelius, the monument, officially titled Passio Musicae, is comprised of more than 600 hollow steel pipes arranged in an abstract pattern and suspended in the air. It’s striking arrangement suggest that it could be a modern piece of art, but it was originally unveiled by artist Eila Hiltunen in 1967 – and was rather controversial for its time, as I understand it.
Sail to Suomenlinna Sea Fortress
Now would be a great time to take the short ferry ride Suomenlinna, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Spend a few hours exploring this historical fortress spread across six islands. Walk the ramparts, visit museums, and enjoy panoramic views of the Baltic Sea. Full disclosure: I didn’t think that I would have enough time to do Suomenlinna justice with the time I did have, and quite frankly I was feeling a bit burned out on museums after my first day, but in retrospect I wish that I had gone to visit. Everything I’ve read about it suggests that the sea fortress is one of Helsinki’s most impressive attractions.
Visit the Design District
I took my time wandering back through the city to arrive in the design district in Punavuori; this neighborhood is packed with restaurants, shops, boutiques and galleries (and you may have already been here if you stopped in at Chiujaha Julep or Liberty or Death). There are some fun places to visit here, like Bob’s Laundry, a bar and laundromat (because why not?); uber chic Basbas Kulma wine bar and bistro; trendy boutiques like Frenn (Euro-style menswear), and Common (Japanese x Finnish design); Lokal Galleri, and Moko Market. Quiet honestly, these are only scratching the surface of the many fantastic places to explore in Punavuori (and the adjacent Merikortteli) – you could easily spend an entire day here if you’re into the Nordic design aesthetic.
Go Park to Park
There are several parks near Punavuori, including Johanneksenpuisto, home to the neo-Gothic St John’s Church; beautiful Tähtitorninvuori, with its observatory and sculpture garden; and Esplanadi, famous for its tree-lined boulevard (during the holiday season the trees are strung with lights and this becomes one of the most stunning locations in the city).
Giggle at the Bad Bad Boy Statue
If you have a juvenile sense of humor like me, you’ll absolutely want to set aside time to visit the Bad Bad Boy Statue. This towering concrete monstrosity by artist Tommi Toija depicts a pink man relieving himself. One of Finland’s most photographed objects (no, seriously!), Bad Bad Boy has heated plumbing, so you’ll be able to catch the flow no matter what time of year you visit. Hilarious. I love public art.
Relax with a Sauna Session
For Finns, a relaxing afternoon session in a sauna is akin to high tea for the English – it is an integral part of culture and something everyone should experience when visiting. Add in that it’s about a thousand times more enjoyable than sitting around blowing on a scalding cup of water while wearing a fancy hat and there’s really no excuse not to treat yourself. Ritual, custom, tradition – call it what you will, and carve out time to sit, relax, and unwind.
The hard part is deciding whether to side with tradition or to visit a modern sauna complex with all the bells and whistles – and fancy towels. Löyly Helsinki is a modern sauna complex and restaurant and one of the city’s most popular sauna destinations. Allas Sea Pool is a year-round destination that’s wildly popular with locals. Kulttuurisauna is a great choice if you can’t get enough of the chill Nordic aesthetic and love eco-conscious design. The list goes on and on – there are dozens of outstanding saunas in Helsinki with all manner of service levels.
Have a Drink in the Kallio District
The Kallio District’s vibe is distinctly bohemian and there are plenty of great pubs, bars, and beer halls to visit here. My Canadian heritage drew me to Beaver Bar, while I was also attracted to the divey vibes of Kallio Snadi Pub. There are excellent restaurants here as well, from the homey Boka Helsinki, to the trendy Ravintola Maukku.
WHAT DID I MISS?
Where do I even begin? For a small city Helsinki packs a punch, and there’s plenty I wish I had seen. Just a few attractions to whet your appetite:
Suomenlinna Sea Fortress
I mentioned this one, but it belongs at the top of the list. Explore historic fortifications, museums, and scenic coastal views.
SkySauna Helsinki
The famous Ferris wheel sauna! SkySauna offers a unique sauna experience where you can enjoy gentle steam while watching the harbor and cityscape from above.
Restaurant Grön
The shimmering star of Helsinki’s fine dining scene. Next time!
Toolonlahti Bay
A scenic area for walking, jogging, or visiting the Winter Garden.
Hietaniemi Beach (Hietsu)
A popular sandy beach near the city center.
Hakaniemi Market Hall
Another local favorite for food and crafts in an authentic setting.
Alvar Aalto House and Studio
The home and workspace of Finland’s most famous architect.
THE DETAILS
Currency: Euro (EUR)
- I exclusively used the digital wallet on my phone in Helsinki but I did have some Euros in my pocket just in case. Take note that some of the city’s saunas are cash only, as are some of the vendors at outdoor markets.
When To Go: Fall
- I’m basing this recommendation on the fact that I did indeed visit in the fall. The weather was perfect in mid-October, and there were few crowded areas.
Hotel: Scandic Helsinki HUB
- Reasonably priced hotel with a nice restaurant on site and simple, cozy rooms.
Best Time to Visit Helsinki
The best time to visit Helsinki depends on your preferences:
Summer: Warm weather (average 18–22°C/64–72°F) and long daylight hours, including the famous "Midnight Sun." Ideal for outdoor activities, festivals, and exploring markets and parks.
Winter: Cold weather (average -5–0°C/23–32°F) with a magical snowy landscape. Great for experiencing saunas, winter sports, and festive Christmas markets.
Spring: Mild weather and blooming flowers, but fewer crowds.
Autumn: Cool weather and vibrant fall foliage, perfect for quiet exploration.
Summer is the most popular time, but winter offers unique Nordic charm.
Getting Around Helsinki
Getting around Helsinki is easy and efficient thanks to its excellent public transportation system, which includes trams, buses, metro, and ferries, all operated by HSL (Helsinki Regional Transport). The tram network is particularly convenient for exploring the city center, while the metro connects central Helsinki to its suburbs. For short distances, walking or cycling is a great option, as the city is compact and pedestrian-friendly, with bike rentals widely available. Taxis and ride-sharing apps like Uber are also accessible. To save money, consider purchasing an HSL day pass, which provides unlimited travel on public transport for 24 hours or more.
Where to Stay in Helsinki
1. Hotel Kamp
Why: A luxury 5-star hotel in the city center, blending historic charm with modern elegance. Close to Esplanadi Park and top attractions.
Best for: Travelers seeking indulgence and a prime location.
2. Clarion Hotel Helsinki
Why: A stylish and contemporary hotel with stunning views of the city and harbor. Features a rooftop pool and bar.
Best for: Those who love modern design and scenic vistas.
3. Omena Hotel Helsinki City Centre
Why: Budget-friendly, self-service hotel with a central location near Kamppi shopping center. Simple yet convenient.
Best for: Budget-conscious travelers wanting easy access to the city.
Quick Travel Tips for Helsinki
1. Pack for the Weather: Helsinki’s weather can be unpredictable. Bring layers, a waterproof jacket, and sturdy shoes, especially in spring, autumn, or winter.
2. Embrace Local Saunas: Don’t miss out on a quintessential Finnish experience by visiting public saunas like Löyly or Allas Sea Pool. It’s a great way to relax and connect with local culture.
3. Visit Free Attractions: Many landmarks, like Helsinki Cathedral and Esplanadi Park, are free. Check for museums with free entry days to save money.
Comments