Have you heard the term Friluftsliv? Me neither – at least not until I visited Norway. Here’s the gist of it: Friluftsliv is a Norwegian concept that means "open-air living" or "life in the outdoors". It's a cultural and philosophical way of life that emphasizes being in harmony with nature and finding freedom in the great outdoors – no matter how objectively horrific the weather might be at any one time.
Hail storm? Friluftsliv and bear it. Torrential rain? Friluftsliv and hike a fjord. Near-ceaseless winter dark? No worries, Friluftsliv with your friends and jump in a lake! I jest, but you get what I’m trying to say – there’s never a bad time to get out and explore nature, and when one is willing to embrace Friluftsliv the benefits can be tremendous. We all know that Mother Nature works wonders; think reduced anxiety and stress. Improved sleep. Increased physical fitness. And an increase in happiness! It’s really no wonder then that Oslo, Norway’s captivating capital, is one of the greenest, most outdoor-focused cities in Europe. I had two days to explore this vibrant playground, and I made it my mission to embrace Friluftsliv at every opportunity. Keep reading for my almost perfect itinerary.
Day 1: Long Walks and Nordic Vibes
Sommerro -> Bygdøy Peninsula -> Skøyen Båtforening -> Frogner Park -> Royal Palace -> City Hall -> Akershus Fortress -> Mini Bottle Gallery -> Munch Museum -> Oslo Opera House -> Himkok -> Arakataka -> Svanen -> Sommerro
Drag Yourself Out of Bed at Sommerro
Sommerro is one of the finest hotels in Oslo and you may find it difficult to kick off your covers, but you can’t embrace Friluftsliv from beneath the sheets. Grab breakfast to go at the lobby café and prepare yourself for an amazing day of exploration.
Head to the Bygdøy Peninsula
It would take roughly an hour and a quarter to walk from Sommerro to the Fram Museum. With time at a premium, I decided to take a cab out to Bygdøy to get my day rolling. Bygdøy Peninsula could easily occupy an entire day – or two – of any itinerary. There’s the famed Fram Museum, of course, as well as the Norwegian Maritime, Kon-Tiki, Norwegian Cultural History (the Stave Church is one of Oslo's most famous landmarks), and Viking Ship museums (the Viking Ship Museum was undergoing renovations when I visited), hiking trails, beaches, Oscarshall Palace Museum (summer only), and parks packed with public art.
The Fram Museum is dedicated to polar exploration and houses the Fram, a historic ship renowned for being the strongest wooden vessel ever built, designed to withstand the crushing ice of the Arctic and Antarctic. I spent more than an hour exploring the ship itself and engrossed in the narratives of explorers Fridtjof Nansen, Roald Amundsen, and Otto Sverdrup.
After visiting the Fram I stopped in at the maritime museum and then did some wandering along the waterfront. There are epic views of the city to be had from here, as well as some spectacular public art and monuments to appreciate, including the Bygdøy WW II Navy Memorial. It was around this time that I started wishing that I had more time to explore Oslo; I wanted to see many of the sights on the peninsula, but I knew that I should get a move on it if I wanted to experience more of the city.
Stay Outside a While
I knew that I wanted to walk back to the city and take in the sights along the way. After passing several of the museums I mentioned earlier I came to the Bygdø Royal Farm, the King of Norway’s summer stomping grounds (the summer palace, Oscarshall, is open during the summer). Surprisingly, there were relatively few people out and about, and I had much of the park, and the epic fall colorscape, all to myself. I even had the chance to scratch the king’s sheep behind the ears, though I’m not sure if that constitutes a crime against the crown.
I left the park and made my way along the waterfront to the Skøyen Båtforening boat club, and to say that this place offered epic views is a ridiculous understatement. I had sailboats in the foreground, fall colors blazing away on the hillside in the background, and Oscarshall perched above it all. This was one of the best surprises of my entire trip and resulted in some of my favorite photos.
Further along the waterfront I came to the Frognerstranda Marina (at least that’s the best name I could uncover for this spot) and the iconic Fortuna sculpture. From the sculpture I was only 20 minutes walking time from Frogner Park, my next major destination.
Some of the Reasons to Visit Frogner Park
Frogner Park is more than just a park; it's a profound celebration of art, nature, and humanity (that last one is tough to explain, but read on). It’s also one of Oslo’s most popular destinations, attracting several million visitors each year, but don’t fret – at roughly 80 acres the park is huge and if you happen upon a crowded area… keep on walking.
The selling points:
1. The Vigeland Installation: This is the world’s largest sculpture park by a single artist: Frogner Park houses the Vigeland Installation, the life's work of Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland. It features over 200 sculptures in bronze, granite, and wrought iron, portraying the human experience from birth to death.
2. Iconic Sculptures: The Monolith (Monolitten): A towering 14-meter-high column carved from a single block of granite, featuring 121 intertwined human figures symbolizing the cycle of life. Sinnataggen (The Angry Boy): A small bronze sculpture of a toddler in a tantrum, one of the park's most beloved and photographed pieces. You may have to wait in line to take a selfie with the little fella.
3. Expansive Landscapes: Covering 80 acres, the park offers vast green spaces, tree-lined pathways, and open lawns, making it an ideal place for relaxation, picnics, and outdoor activities.
4. Seasonal Beauty: Frogner Park changes with the seasons, with cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, spectacular colors in fall, and a serene, snow-covered landscape in winter.
5. Historical and Cultural Significance: The park is part of the Frogner Manor, a historic estate dating back to the 18th century. The Manor House is now home to the Oslo City Museum.
Consider picking up lunch to go and enjoying it in the park. I spent every second that I could spare here not only visiting the sculptures and monuments, but also turning down quiet pathways to take photos along narrow streams, sussing out epic panoramas over the city center, and finally searching for – but not discovering – the actual Vigeland Museum at the heart of the park. Next time!
Continue to the Royal Palace
It’s a short walk from Frogner Park to the Royal Palace and the beautiful Palace Park (Slottsparken). The Royal Palace was built as a residence for King Carl Johan but was not completed until after his death and was inaugurated on 26 July 1849. I missed the changing of the guard (typically 1:30pm) and I was unable to go inside as the palace is only open for touring during the summertime. I hadn’t read up on this but wasn’t too distraught – there’s plenty to see in Palace Park and the palace itself is in a central location not far from many of the other attractions on my list.
Set Aside Time for Oslo City Hall
One of the reasons that I wasn’t too bothered by missing out on the Royal Palace was that I knew that nearby Oslo City Hall was open. City Hall (Oslo rådhus) is a remarkable building that holds cultural, historical, and architectural significance, not the least of which is the fact that it hosts the annual Nobel Peace Prize Award Ceremony, the only Nobel Prize awarded outside of Sweden. To the best of my knowledge, I was not nominated this year, nor was I invited, so I settled for the building’s other attractions.
Designed by Arnstein Arneberg and Magnus Poulsson, City Hall was completed in 1950, blending functionalism with elements of traditional Norwegian architecture. Its twin brick towers dominate Oslo's skyline, and the building remains the city’s last built in this style. The main sights include the striking astronomical clock, the murals of the grand main hall, the tapestries in the room dedicated to King Harald the Ruthless, and, my favorite, artist Dagfin Werenskiold Norse mythology reliefs that decorate exterior walls leading to the building’s entrance.
Scale the Fortifications at Akershus Fortress
Akershus Fortress (Akershus Festning) belongs on your must-visit list. Built around 1299 under King Håkon V, Akershus Fortress served as a royal residence and stronghold to protect Oslo from invaders. The main draw here is of course the ancient fortress itself, which includes medieval and Renaissance architectural elements. Akershus Castle (Akershus Slott), was modernized in the 17th century, and its state of preservation is remarkable. Most people come for a quick look and for sweeping views over Oslofjord, but if time allows consider a guided tour that includes the dungeons, banquet halls, and royal chambers.
Unwind at the Mini Bottle Gallery
You’re probably noticing by now that I was moving at breakneck pace, and I’ll be honest and say that this was not by design. There’s so much to see in Oslo that two days really doesn’t do it justice… but I was determined to do my best. If you’re like me and have limited time in the city you might decide to spend more time more deeply exploring just a few locations – or better yet, add a day or two to really get a feel for everything Oslo has to offer.
I made a quick stop at the Mini Bottle Gallery in the Sentrum area (an area known for cozy cafés and bistros). The gallery features the largest collection of miniature bottles in the world (more than 12,500 on display!), along with a beautiful lounge and bar area.
Visit MUNCH and Summit the Oslo Opera House
I made my way to MUNCH to do the same thing everyone does – admire Edvard Munch’s masterpiece “The Scream.” While “The Scream” is the big draw, there’s plenty to love about this state-of-the-art complex, including multiple levels of exhibits (Munch as well as other artists), the architecture of the museum, the research library, and more.
Adjacent MUNCH is the famous Oslo Opera House, another architectural marvel built at the head of the Oslofjord. I didn’t come to see a show, but rather to trek to the top of the building, one of the most popular activities among Oslo visitors. It was overcast during my visit and the contrast between the white marble and the gray sky was stunning – as were the views over the city, and the angles of She Lies, the floating sculpture by Monica Bonvicini.
Crash Some of the World’s Best Bars
Nordic bars are absolutely having a moment and Oslo features several of the finest in the world. First on my list was Himkok, one of the slickest, sleekest temples of libation one will ever experience. I was rolling solo and was lucky to score a spot at the bar but I’d recommend making a reservation. And you must, I repeat, MUST, order a karsk - this is without a doubt the finest drink I have had in my life, and the history that goes along with it is awesome. I also learned that Himkok offers bartending classes, which would make for an epic experience.
I had a bit of time before my dinner reservation and popped into Svanen, a trendy bar located in a converted apothecary with roots that date back to 1896. Mohagany, marble, countless medicinal drawers, and swans – so many swans – make the visit a unique experience. Cocktails are outstanding, service is top notch, and the speakeasy in the basement is worth a nightcap.
Dine at Arakataka
Do you like seasonal, inventive Nordic cuisine? Yes, you do. I put Arakataka on my list the moment I knew that I was visiting Oslo. Highlights, beyond the buzzy, hip atmosphere and solid cocktail menu, included sunchoke, söl and reindeer heart, as well as redfish, mussels and celeriac, and my dessert of cloudberry, sea buckthorn and black lemon. Most of these ingredients were new to me so I went in with high expectations and a sense of curiosity and was richly rewarded.
Day 2: Hidden Gems and a Slower Pace
Sommerro -> Oslofjord Cruise -> Grünerløkka -> Mathallen Food Hall -> Akerselva River Walk -> Botanical Gardens -> Oslo Cathedral -> Oslo Central Station -> Oslo Badstruforening -> Andre Til Høyre -> xef Gastronomic -> Borrelaas -> Sommerro
Yes, that first day was a grind. I’ll admit it. A long, fun, enlivening grind. But since you’re like me and you are now an ardent practitioner of Friluftsliv I know that you can handle another round.
The Oslofjord is known for its serene beauty, picturesque islands, colorful cottages, and stunning city views. Best of all, there are a dozen different ways to experience a morning on the water. I opted to rent a kayak, but you could book a fishing charter; cruise on a sauna raft (I’d love to try this next time); an island-hoping tour; or even a “trollcruise” that includes a meal aboard a vintage sailing vessel. Check out this handy activity guide for more options.
Explore Grünerløkka
Stroll through Oslo’s most vibrant and artistic neighborhood, filled with quirky shops, cafés, and street art. Grünerløkka is a hub of creativity and local charm, perfect for soaking in the city’s urban vibe. Nearby is Mathallen, a culinary hotspot featuring a diverse selection of international and Norwegian cuisine. It’s the perfect place to sample local flavors or indulge in something exotic.
Stretch your Legs Along the Akerselva River Walk
Keeping with the day’s relaxed pace, take a leisurely walk along the Akerselva River, a spectacular part of the city that is strangely unheralded. Picture fairytale bridges, public art installations, waterfalls, and fascinating industrial history all the way along this stretch of the river’s 8-kilometer length.
Visit Oslo Cathedral
Visit this historic cathedral, known for its beautiful ceiling murals and baroque organ. Oslo Cathedral is a symbol of the city’s rich spiritual and architectural heritage. The church is in a busy part of the downtown core with plenty of shops and galleries to visit.
Stop at Oslo Central Station
Oslo Central is right in the thick of all of Oslo’s downtown action, close to Oslo Cathedral, the Opera House, and the waterfront. The station is known for its impressive architecture and modern shopping spaces and for blending functionality with contemporary design, but I came for one reason and one reason only: to see the massive bronze tiger gifted to the city by artist Elena Engelsen on the occasion of Oslo’s 1,000th anniversary in 2000.
Refresh at in a Waterfront Sauna
Oslo Badstuforening, or the Oslo Sauna Association, manages several public saunas in the city, including Måken, a sauna raft made of salvaged driftwood from Bjørvika. I decided on Måken because of its location (directly across from the Opera House) and because I was sold on the hatch in the floor that allows anyone brave enough jump directly into the water. Chilly!
Here’s a handy resource that will help you choose a sauna that’s perfect for you.
Imbibe at Andre Til Høyre
It took me a moment to locate this place – it is styled as an “apartment” with three separate rooms up the stairs from another restaurant – but when I did, I was thrilled. There’s a lounge, a wine bar, and a library bar to choose from, the latter of which I found the most appealing. I sat down with what must be the most audaciously ugly menu ever created (I say this with love, but seriously... look at this thing), ordered a cocktail, and flipped backwards through my Oslo photos.
Dine at Kontrast
When searching for where to eat prior to leaving for Oslo I came upon Kontrast, a modern Scandanavian restaurant that has earned high marks from the likes of the Michelin guide. Reviews and reputation aside, what pushed me to book a table was this line from Kontrast’s website: “we choose to use animals that have lived their lives free and wild. Happy animals are good animals.” I am always game to try a place with a strong sustainability ethos and a commitment to the environment, even if it means my wallet is going to take an absolute thrashing. Which it did. And I’d gladly pay for the experience all over again; Kontrast is more than worth the hype.
Drink at Borrelaas While You Can Get In
Himkok is legendary. Svanen is iconic. Borrelaas is burgeoning. My fancy cocktail (the Ronja, made with butter bourbon, caramel, salt, and bitters) glowed under the ceiling’s serpentine neon tubes, while the bartender/owner, one of the friendliest people I met in a city full of them, dished recommendation after recommendation while waxing on the many ways he loves his city. So great.
Return to Sommerro
This hotel is charming, lavish, and so effortlessly cool that I felt self-conscious every time I crossed the threshold. You can’t go wrong with a meal here – I had breakfast before leaving on my final day – or unwinding with a drink in one of the elegant art-deco styled lounges. And you should certainly check out Vestkantbadet, a “wellness paradise” featuring a gym, pool, and historic bathhouse.
WHAT DID I MISS?
There are a few places on my list that I missed, but I would say overall that I just didn’t spend enough time exploring and experiencing the things I did see. Two days in Oslo just really isn’t enough to do all that I did – a third or fourth day would have allowed me to full appreciate the attractions I visited.
THE DETAILS
Currency: Norweigian Krone (NOK)
- I exclusively used the digital wallet on my phone in Oslo. I don’t know if Oslo is entirely cashless but it’s as close to it as any place as I’ve ever been.
Best Time to Visit Oslo
1. Summer: Warm temperatures (18-25°C / 64-77°F) make it ideal for outdoor activities like fjord cruises, hiking, and walking tours. Long daylight hours with the midnight sun effect in June provide ample time for exploration. Vibrant festivals, including Oslo Pride, the Norwegian Wood Music Festival, and Øyafestivalen. Book accommodations early, as summer is the busiest and priciest season.
2. Autumn: Peaceful and Picturesque. Fall foliage transforms parks and streets into vibrant shades of red, orange, and gold, especially along the Akerselva River. Fewer crowds and lower accommodation prices. Mild weather in early autumn (10-15°C / 50-59°F) transitions to cooler days in late autumn.
3. Winter: A Magical Wonderland. Oslo transforms into a snowy paradise, perfect for skiing and other winter sports at places like Oslo Winter Park. The Christmas markets, festive lights, and cozy cafes create a charming holiday atmosphere. Northern Lights can occasionally be seen on clear nights (though not as common as in northern Norway). Bring warm clothing; temperatures range from -7 to 2°C (19-36°F).
4. Spring: Reawakening and Blooming Nature comes alive with blooming flowers, especially in the Botanical Gardens and along Oslo’s parks. Longer days and milder weather (5-15°C / 41-59°F) make it great for exploring. Fewer tourists mean a quieter and more relaxed experience.
Getting Around Oslo
Getting around Oslo is easy with its efficient public transport system (buses, trams, metro, ferries, and trains), all accessible with a single Ruter ticket. The city is also compact and walkable, with many attractions close to each other. After my cab into town and my ride to the Fram Museum I walked everywhere.
Where to Stay in Oslo
1. Sommerro
Why Stay: A luxurious and stylish hotel in a restored 1930s landmark, blending Art Deco design with modern amenities. It features a rooftop pool, spa, and dining options, ideal for a high-end, centrally located experience. Perfect For: Luxury travelers and architecture enthusiasts.
2. The Thief
Why Stay: Located in the trendy Tjuvholmen neighborhood, this boutique hotel offers waterfront views, curated art, and a chic vibe. Its proximity to the Astrup Fearnley Museum and fine dining options adds to its appeal. Perfect For: Art lovers and those seeking a modern, stylish retreat.
3. Citybox Oslo
Why Stay: A budget-friendly option with a central location near Oslo Central Station and Karl Johans gate. It offers clean, minimalist rooms and self-service facilities, perfect for travelers on a budget. Perfect For: Budget-conscious travelers who prioritize convenience.
Quick Travel Tips for Oslo
1. Get an Oslo Pass: This pass offers free public transportation, free entry to many museums, and discounts at restaurants, making it a great value for exploring the city.
2. Dress in Layers: Oslo's weather can change quickly, so pack clothes that can be layered to stay comfortable throughout the day.
3. Enjoy Free Attractions: Many parks, like Frogner Park, and outdoor areas are free to visit, offering stunning views and cultural experiences at no cost.
4. Try Local Food: Sample Norwegian classics like rakfisk or modern dishes at food halls like Mathallen. Don’t miss Oslo’s thriving café culture.
5. Embrace Outdoor Activities: Oslo is perfect for outdoor enthusiasts—explore Oslomarka forests, take a fjord cruise, or relax at a floating sauna.
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