Bold statement: Riga is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe and should be near the top of your travel bucket list.
But Flash, you say, aghast, how can ye proclaim as such? I have never so much as heard of Riga!
I’ll answer with a question - what exactly are you looking for when planning a trip to ol’ Europa?
Do you yearn for historic architecture, colorful facades, grand cathedrals, opulent hotels, and the cobbled streets of yore? Is it sedate charm, cozy cafés, trendy bars, and inventive restaurants that pique your interest? Are you after an immersive cultural experience, but loathe crowds, queues, and the commercialization of every last iota of travel? Perhaps you are a total wildcard, and you deign for a city perched on the western flank of the Russian frontier?
Even if you scratch that last one, this Baltic beauty checks box after box. The UNESCO-listed Old Town enchants with its cobblestone streets, medieval landmarks, and vibrant Art Nouveau architecture. The city’s rich cultural heritage shines through its museums, thriving art scene, and lively festivals, while the bustling Central Market provides an authentic taste of Latvian life. Tucked alongside the Daugava River, Riga combines urban vibrancy with serene green spaces, offering a scenic riverfront and lush parks. With its mix of historic charm, modern flair, and warm hospitality, Riga is a destination that will leave you wondering why it doesn’t get talked about alongside other great Northern European destinations. Check out my Almost Perfect itinerary, and visit now, before the secret gets out.
Day 1: History, Culture, Hospitality
Grand Palace Hotel -> Three Brothers -> Swedish Gate -> Riga Cathedral -> Dome Square -> St Peter’s Church -> Bremen Town Musician's Monument -> Town Square & House of the Black Heads -> First Christmas Tree Marker -> Old Oak Trunk -> Riga Central Market -> Latvian Academy of Sciences -> Black Magic -> Gimlet Nordic Cocktail Bar -> Kalku Varti -> The Banshee -> Grand Palace Hotel
Slow Down at the Grand Palace Hotel
Stay at the Gand Palace Hotel. Don’t think about it – just book it and thank me later. Facts: originally built in 1877, the Grand Palace Hotel exudes timeless elegance with its blend of historic architecture and modern sophistication. With only 56 rooms and suites, the hotel offers an intimate, exclusive atmosphere where attention to detail and personalized service are paramount. The interiors feature classic European decor with luxurious touches, creating a warm and welcoming ambiance. You’ll absolutely get annoyed with guests taking photos in the stairwells and in the bar… and then do exactly that yourself. Despite being in the vibrant Old Town, the hotel is tucked away in a quiet street, ensuring a tranquil stay without sacrificing convenience. The combination of historical elegance, personalized service, and a prime location makes the Grand Palace Hotel an exceptional choice for visitors seeking a luxurious stay in Riga. I wasn’t paid to write any of this, either – I just genuinely loved this hotel.
Explore the Old Town
If and when you find the strength to leave the hotel, it’s time to properly begin your exploration of Riga’s Old Town. Right around the corner you’ll find the Three Brothers, a trio of historic buildings showcasing medieval Latvian architecture. The oldest residential buildings in Riga are home to the Latvian Museum of Architecture.
Next up is the Swedish Gate, a 17th-century relic that you’ll find in one of the city’s most atmospheric areas. Narrow streets lined with cafés, cobbled alleys, and some of Riga’s oldest buildings characterize this part of town.
Nearby is Rigas Doms, or the Riga Dome Cathedral. The Riga Cathedral, one of the largest medieval churches in the Baltic region, is renowned for its stunning Gothic, Baroque, and Romanesque architecture and its world-famous organ, celebrated for its exceptional acoustics and intricate craftsmanship.
By now you’ll have arrived or passed through Dome Square at least once; Dome Square is the largest square in the city, with seven streets coming together at its center. Here in the bustling heart of the Old Town you could stop at one of a dozen cafés, check out the Fashion Museum of Riga or the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design, take a quick detour down to the waterfront, or do like I did and continue exploring the Old Town on foot.
I made my next stop Rigas Sveta Petera baznica, or St Peter’s Church. The church’s wooden spire, at 123 meters, is one of the tallest of its kind. The viewing gallery, at 72 meters, offers up amazing views of the Old Town’s characteristic red roofs, Riga Bay, and the Daugava River.
There’s quite a lot to see in and around the church, including an archery range (closed when I visited – shoot!), and the famous Town Musicians of Bremen, Gerhard Marcks’ famous bronze depicting a rooster, cat, dog and donkey stacked on top of one another in beautiful Grimm Brothers-inspired glory. Do like everyone who visits Riga does and rub their noses for good luck.
I backtracked a bit to visit Plac Ratuszowy, or Town Hall Square, with the House of the Blackheads, Riga’s most famous landmark. Learn about the city's history and marvel at the striking architecture. Riga's House of the Blackheads is an iconic architectural masterpiece originally built in 1334 as a guild hall for the Brotherhood of Blackheads, an association of unmarried merchants and shipowners. Located in the heart of Riga’s Old Town, its ornate façade features intricate Gothic and Renaissance elements, while its richly decorated interior hosts exhibitions, events, and a museum showcasing the building's history and the legacy of the Blackheads' contributions to Riga's trade and culture.
There are several other sights in the square, including a marker proudly proclaiming this to be the site of the first-ever public Christmas tree. You’ll find the marker near the northwest corner of the ornate building – when I visited in October there was a beautiful brass or bronze Christmas tree statue erected above the marker, adding to the allure.
Tucked away in a commercial alley nearby I came upon a beautifully displayed oak trunk; the tree is said to have grown on the bank of the Daugava some 3,500 years ago. Check it out on Rates pasaža behind Riga Town Hall.
Find a Snack at the Riga Central Market
Like many travelers I love visiting a good market, and Riga Central is certainly one for the books. The market is most famous for its clever repurposing of WW I Zeppelin hangars; Zeppelins were the massive airships notoriously known for their use by the Germans in bombing raids across Britain. Five hangars are in use at the market today, and you can wander through each of them as you visit some of the more than 3,000 vendor stalls.
Listed alongside Old Riga as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Riga Central Market is a fantastic glimpse into daily Latvian life. Vendors offer everything from fresh produce, smoked fish, and meats to artisan goods and traditional treats, and there are plenty of stalls where you can order a good meal and watch the world go by. It's not just a shopping destination but a cultural experience and a showcase for the region's culinary traditions in a lively, bustling atmosphere. One of the highlights for me was the little outpost of Labietis, a beloved local brewery, though I’ll admit that I made my choice based solely on the awesome Viking logo. Don’t judge me – I know that you buy wine based on the labels.
Latvian Academy of Sciences Observation Deck
It’s a short walk to the Latvian Academy of Sciences and then a quick elevator ride to the observation deck for another panoramic view of the city. Some fun history: the Latvian Academy of Sciences, often referred to as "Stalin's Birthday Cake" due to its striking resemblance to Soviet-era skyscrapers, is an iconic example of Socialist Realist architecture. Built between 1951 and 1961, this towering structure stands at 107 meters and features ornate detailing, including Latvian folk motifs.
Its observation deck, located on the 17th floor, offers breathtaking panoramic views of Riga, including the Old Town, the Daugava River, the Zeppelin hangars of the Central Market, and unimpeded views of the Riga Radio and TV Tower, the tallest tower (368.5m) in the European Union and third tallest in Europe after Moscow’s Ostankino Tower (540m) and the Kyiv TV Tower (385m).
Make it a Magical Happy Hour
If you’re game to head back into Old Town to soak in the evening atmosphere, I suggest a stop at the quirky Riga Black Magic. I’d describe it as one-part confectionary shop, one part confectionary, and one-part medieval tasting room, and somehow that still wouldn’t do it justice. Here’s how Riga Black Magic tells its own story: “The modern bar "Riga Black Magic" relates to the ancient story of the origin of "Riga Black Balsam" and its inventor, alchemist and pharmacist Abraham Kunce. It was his miracle healing potion, an infusion of 24 herbs, that became most popular in the city and was considered a medicine that could cure almost or all ailments.” Absolutely worth a stop.
I left Riga Black Magic and strolled past the Freedom Monument, through the esplanade, and out toward the picturesque Old Evangelical Lutheran Church of St. Gertrude – though the church was not my destination. I was after a seat at Gimlet Nordic Cocktail Bar, one of Europe’s most acclaimed libation stations. I was lucky to get a spot at the bar and I tasted my way through some of Riga’s favorite flavors.
Despite the acclaim Gimlet is a chill space and I was welcomed warmly and not treaded like a fool when I asked question after question about ingredients I was unfamiliar with. This is part and parcel to my entire Riga experience – locals are incredibly kind, friendly, slyly funny, and game to make sure visitors have a great time in their beautiful city.
There are several other places to drink and dine in this area, including Martinelli Riga (right next door), KURE Ceptuve (pastry shop), Bar Six (two blocks away), and, back toward Old Town, the Skyline Bar, located at the Radisson Blu Latvija – if you haven’t had your fill of sweeping city views, that is.
Dine in the Old Town
My first major oversight was failing to make dinner reservations at the popular Domini Canes; the good news is that staff were more than happy to offer up suggestions on where to try instead. The first recommendation, Petergailis, was also booked solid, but I did have luck with my second stop at Kalku Varti, a chic Baltic-mod restaurant with an eclectic menu.
I made time for a nightcap at The Banshee then took my time wandering back to the Grand Palace Hotel, snapping photos in the busy Old Town as I went.
Day 2: Conflict, Espionage, Resilience
Grand Palace Hotel -> Kristaps the Great Statue -> Riga Ghetto -> Jana Seta Map Shop -> Corner House Museum -> Albert Street Art Nouveau -> Nativity of Christ Cathedral -> Bastejkalna Park -> The Freedom Monument -> Livu Laukums Square -> Zila Govs Restaurant -> The Armoury Bar -> Nightcap -> Grand Palace Hotel
The Legend of Lielais Kristaps
After breakfast – either at the Grand Palace Hotel, or a local Old Town café – head to the river for a morning jaunt and a glimpse at the statue of Kristaps the Great. The legend of Lielais Kristaps is tethered to the creation myth of the city of Riga: centuries ago, a kind giant named Offero carried a small boy across the raging Daugava River despite the danger the journey posed. That boy turned out to be Christ who thereafter baptized Offero, named him “Christ-Bearer,” and blessed him with enough gold to establish the city. If you happened to visit the Museum of Riga on day one you can skip this visit, as the original statue, dating to the late 16th century, is kept there.
Visit the Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum
Next, take a short walk to the Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum. The Riga Ghetto was established in 1941 by Nazi Germany and became one of the largest ghettos in the Baltic region. Its distinctiveness arises from several factors:
Tragic Scale of Atrocities: The Riga Ghetto was a site of immense suffering. Initially, it housed about 30,000 Jews from Riga and its surrounding areas, but most of them were murdered in the Rumbula Massacre in November and December 1941. This mass killing was one of the largest single massacres of the Holocaust.
Deportation of German and Austrian Jews: In 1941-1942, the Nazis deported thousands of Jews from Germany, Austria, and other parts of Europe to the Riga Ghetto. The arrival of these deportees added to the overcrowding and harsh conditions.
Symbol of Collaboration and Resistance: The ghetto is a poignant reminder of local complicity in the Holocaust, as some Latvian collaborators assisted the Nazis. At the same time, it also reflects stories of resistance and resilience, with some Jews managing to escape or fight back despite overwhelming odds.
Post-War Memory and Preservation: Today, the Riga Ghetto is remembered through memorials and museums, such as the Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum. These sites educate visitors about the ghetto's history, preserving the memory of its victims and exploring the broader context of the Holocaust in Latvia.
The Riga Ghetto exemplifies both the horrors of genocide and the importance of remembering and understanding history to prevent such atrocities from recurring. Reserve at least an hour to walk through the exhibits.
Forget Google Maps
This next recommendation will appeal to you if you love old maps as much as I do. The Jana Seta Map Shop features hundreds, if not thousands, of Cold War-era maps, and most of them are for sale. Staff are astonishingly well-versed in Latvian history and spent a great deal of time showing me one map after the other; I purchased a 1940s map of Riga after a crash course in Soviet cartography tricks, and I think you should, too.
Learn the KGB’s Secrets
Depending on your appetite for the heaviness of history, you may wish to head back into the Old Town for more sightseeing, or you may want to visit the Corner House Museum, as I did. Riga's Corner House Museum, officially known as the KGB Building Museum, is important because it sheds light on the oppressive practices of the Soviet regime in Latvia during the 20th century. It is housed in the former headquarters of the Soviet secret police (the KGB) in Riga, and its significance lies in the following aspects:
Preserving the Memory of Soviet Repression: The Corner House was the site where thousands of Latvians were interrogated, imprisoned, tortured, and in many cases, sentenced to death or deportation to Siberian labor camps during the Soviet occupation (1940-1941, 1944-1991). The museum serves as a stark reminder of the human rights abuses and political oppression faced by Latvians under Soviet rule.
Educational Value: Through exhibits, guided tours, and archival materials, the museum educates visitors about the methods and operations of the KGB in Latvia. It provides insight into how totalitarian regimes use fear, surveillance, and violence to suppress dissent and control populations. I did not take a tour as they were fully booked when I visited, but I was able to experience the museum at my own pace.
Symbol of National Resilience: The museum plays a key role in Latvia's journey of coming to terms with its Soviet past. By confronting the painful history of occupation and repression, the Corner House fosters national dialogue and remembrance. It stands as a testament to Latvia's survival and eventual independence in 1991 after decades of foreign domination.
Architectural and Historical Significance: The building itself is an artifact of Soviet-era architecture and serves as a physical reminder of the era’s oppressive legacy.
Promoting Awareness of Totalitarianism's Impact: The Corner House Museum not only commemorates the victims of the Soviet regime but also warns against the dangers of authoritarianism, making it a relevant and powerful site for reflection.
Embrace Albert Street Art (Nouveau)
While the Riga Ghetto and the Corner House Museum are both important, impactful places well worth a visit, it’s time for a reprieve. It’s a short walk through the Central District to Albert Street, one of Riga’s main attractions. Albert Street (Alberta iela) is renowned for its stunning Art Nouveau architecture, featuring ornate buildings designed by prominent architects like Mikhail Eisenstein. The street is a showcase of intricate facades, sculptures, and decorative details, making it a key destination for visitors exploring Riga's cultural and architectural heritage.
Visit the Riga Art Nouveau Center (the spiral stairwell is quite impressive), check out the shops and galleries in the area, and wander down to Kronvalda Park, also packed with public art, including a famous sculpture of a glittery snail with a cloud for a shell.
Visit the Esplanade
Riga’s Esplanade features several major attractions, including the Latvian National Museum of Art, a sculpture titled “Colorful Tree With Birdhouses,” which is wonderfully self-explanatory, and the Nativity of Christ Cathedral. The largest Orthodox cathedral in the Baltic region, construction on this masterpiece began in 1876. Known for being converted into a planetarium by the Soviets (it was re-converted in 1991), and for its magnificent iconostasis, as well as its magnificent gilded dome.
Slow Down at Bastejkalna Park
Take a break and a deep breath at the sprawling, beautiful Bastejkalna Park. There’s an easygoing air here that characterizes the best urban parks, and you’ll have no trouble finding a little bit of space to call all your own for a time. There are historic brick bridges to cross, sculptures and monuments to admire (including the Freedom Monument, which honors soldiers killed during the Latvian War of Independence), fountains, landmarks, and canal ferries, and a hill to summit for fantastic views.
Dine at Livu laukums Square
Livu laukums is a beautiful Old Town square known for its many Latvian restaurants. I had an outstanding meal at Zila Govs, which is fortunate because I selected this restaurant based solely on the charming blue cow statue stationed above the door. Before you sit down to dine, I suggest taking a peek at a few nearby attractions, including the Black Cat of Riga (look this up – the history is hilarious), and the stone head of Salaspils.
Pew Pew, Sip Sip at the Armoury Bar
Speaking of hilarious, if you’ve ever wanted to have a drink while stroking a .50 caliber machine gun or a rocket launcher (and you don’t live in America) the Armoury Bar is ready for you! I was hesitant to visit at first, thinking that this was little more than a tourist trap, but that turned out not to be the case. The Armoury has an amazing whiskey and craft beer selection, friendly bartenders, and a chill vibe… despite the firearms (or perhaps because of?). Ha. Awesome bar, quirky theme.
Nightcap or Nightcab?
Riga is a lively place and there’s plenty to do once the sun goes down. I wandered the Old Town a little while longer and popped into bars here and there, including one called Two More Beers, checked out some funky public art (an installation by Arturs Virtmanis titled “Pastoral” featured a pair of industrial fans blowing shredded paper or plastic around a room), and considered taking a bicycle cab night tour like I saw some folks do (cobblestones are brutal on the feet, after all). I was generally loathe to call it a night as I loved my time in Riga so much – and knew the entire time that I was exploring that I could use another day or two to explore.
WHAT DID I MISS?
So much! I could have spent another full day exploring just the Old Town before venturing further afield. There are several museums that I wanted to visit but did not have time for, including the Riga Motor Museum, Art Museum Riga Bourse, and the Latvian National Museum of Art. A Daugava River cruise at sunset would have been amazing. I still kick myself that I didn’t make the trek to see Sam the Astronaut. There’s the quirky World of Hat, too. Bars for next time would include Distillers Republic as well as Andante. I wish I had been in the city during the famous Christmas Market. Just outside Riga is the Jurmala seaside resort, with sandy beaches and pine forests, and Gauja National Park, with its medieval castle ruins.
THE DETAILS
Currency: Euro (EUR)
- I used the digital wallet on my phone for most purchased but did use cash at several cafés and while visiting the market.
Best Time to Visit Riga
The best time to visit Riga depends on your preferences, as the city offers unique experiences throughout the year:
Late Spring to Early Autumn (May to September): The weather is mild and pleasant, ideal for exploring the city on foot, enjoying outdoor cafes, and attending cultural events.
Highlights: Blossoming parks in spring, bustling summer festivals, and the golden hues of autumn. July and August are the warmest months, perfect for trips to nearby beaches like Jurmala.
Winter (December to February): Riga transforms into a magical winter wonderland, with festive lights and cozy markets. Highlights: The Riga Christmas Market, ice skating, and the chance to experience traditional Latvian winter dishes. While colder, the snow adds a picturesque charm to the city.
Shoulder Seasons (March-April, October-November): Quieter streets, fewer tourists, and lower accommodation costs. Highlights: Spring offers a fresh, peaceful atmosphere, while late autumn showcases the city’s vibrant culture indoors with concerts and exhibitions.
Where to Stay in Riga
Grand Palace Hotel
Located in the heart of the Old Town, this five-star hotel offers elegant rooms, exceptional service, and a historical ambiance. Highlights: Award-winning restaurant, wellness facilities, and proximity to key landmarks like the Dome Cathedral and Riga Castle.
Wellton Riga Hotel & Spa
A modern hotel combining comfort and value, conveniently located near the Central Market and Old Town. Highlights: A full-service spa, onsite restaurant, and stylish rooms with city views.
Riga Central Hostel
A cozy and affordable option with a welcoming atmosphere, located within walking distance of the train station and Old Town. Highlights: Friendly staff, shared kitchen, and a relaxed vibe ideal for meeting other travelers.
Quick Travel Tips for Riga
1. Bring Comfortable Shoes: Riga’s cobblestone streets, especially in the Old Town, can be uneven, so sturdy, comfortable footwear is essential for exploring the city.
2. Use Public Transport: Riga’s public transport system (trams, buses, and trolleybuses) is efficient and affordable. Consider getting a multi-day e-ticket for unlimited rides during your stay.
3. Visit Early or Late for Photos: Popular spots like the House of the Blackheads and Dome Square are less crowded early in the morning or late in the evening, ideal for photography.
4. Try Local Foods at Central Market: Sample Latvian specialties like smoked fish, rye bread, and pickled vegetables at the Riga Central Market for an authentic culinary experience.
5. Carry Euros and a Card: Latvia uses the euro (€), and while cards are widely accepted, small cash is useful for market stalls and smaller shops.
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