Fun fact: Stockholm is home to the world’s longest art gallery. More than 90 of Stockholm’s metro stations feature murals, sculptures, and installations. From the dramatic underground forest of Solna Centrum to the bold dichromatic leaf motif of T-Centralen, Stockholm has figured out a way to make the daily commute just that much less soul crushing. Kudos!
Another banger: Stockholm’s City Hall hosts the Nobel Prize banquet, one of the world’s most prestigious events. Held in the Golden Hall – a quaint, subdued space adorned with 18 million golden mosaic tiles - it’s where laureates celebrate their achievements with royalty and dignitaries. I have yet to receive an invite, but my fingers remain crossed.
If those tidbits alone weren’t enough to convince you that the city is worth visiting, picture this. Stockholm is a captivating city where history, nature, and modernity seamlessly blend. Its stunning archipelago setting, with islands linked by picturesque bridges and waterfront views, provides a unique backdrop for exploring vibrant neighborhoods like the medieval Gamla Stan and trendy Södermalm. The city offers rich cultural experiences, from historic landmarks like the Royal Palace to innovative museums like the Vasa, and the earwormy ABBA, as well as cozy cafes where you can enjoy a traditional fika. Atmospheric, vibrantly hip, stylishly Scandinavian through and though, Stockholm has plenty to keep you occupied, whether it’s your main destination or a jump point to Nordic experiences further afield. I had two days to explore the city, and I’m sharing with you my almost perfect itinerary. I’m just that nice.
Day 1: Cobbled Corners in the Heart of the City
Sheraton Stokholm -> Gamla Stan -> Tiny Sculpture Hunt -> Fika -> Royal Palace -> Monteliusvagen -> Omnipollos Hatt Brewery -> Maria Square -> Fotografiska Museum -> Ferry Tour -> Kastellet -> Röda Huset -> Matbaren -> Hemlös räv -> Sheraton Stockholm
The Sheraton Stockholm is a rather iconic hotel in a prime location for exploring the city. The hotel is near a major shopping district, close to the central rail station, and perfectly suited for someone – like me – who wants to explore by foot. I set out and was struck immediately by the spectacular site of Stockholm City Hall, home to the aforementioned Golden Hall. I didn’t carve out time for a tour this time, but I wish that I had. You probably should.
I strolled across Vasabron, one of Stockholm’s countless bridges, and snapped photos of the Riksdagshuset (parliament), the International Institute for Democracy building on the picturesque Strömsborg, and the skyline of the old town.
Explore Gamla Stan and the Royal Palace
Walking through Gamla Stan feels like stepping back in time, with its narrow cobblestone streets, colorful medieval buildings, and charming cafes. If you visit Stockholm, this is the place to start – just be prepared, as it’s likely the most crowded place you’re going to visit in the city. There is a lot to see here, including Riddarholmen Church, Kungliga Slottet (Royal Palace), the Nobel Prize Museum, the beautiful St. Gertrud, Tyska kyrkan church, and much more – you could easily spend two days exploring, unwinding, popping in to cafés and restaurants, and immersing yourself in Swedish history.
I started at the bottom of the hill at the “entrance” to old town along Storkyrkobrinken, with awesome views of Storkyrkan cathedral (I didn’t go inside – make sure you do!). You’ll be rewarded with fantastic views if you turn and walk along Trångsund prior to arriving at the top of the hill. I toured along Prästgatan, the main shopping street, before spending a bit of time at the old town square, Stortoget. I squeezed through “Stockholm’s Narrowest Street,” Mårten Trotzigs Grand, and eventually found Järnpojke, the Iron Boy, known as Sweden’s smallest statue. There was something moving about this tiny piece, and I found myself in this cozy square for a fair bit of time just soaking in the atmosphere.
Find All Stockholm’s Tiny Sculptures
Apparently, tiny sculptures are a cottage industry in Stockholm, and you’ll find them scattered throughout the city. The Iron Boy is among the most famous, but there are plenty of others, including a caricature of Alfred Nobel by artist Kolodko Mihály that you can find on the wall of the Hungarian embassy facing the Nobel Park. There’s a tiny lion at Kungsholmstorg, a pair of hands behind bars at the bottom of the stairway separating Hornsgatan from Hornsgatspuckeln, and my favorite, the cannon ball lodged into a building in Stortorget. Hilariously, the cannon ball has a 3.5 out of 5 on Google because someone felt the need to queue for 1.5 hours to view a piece of public art.
I came upon another statue that I loved, this one titled Saint George and the Dragon, located in Köpmantorget square. I wish that I had looked this up at the time; this massive bronze replica is based on a 15th century masterpiece made from wood and elk antlers that can be viewed at the nearby Storkyrkan cathedral. I told you, don’t forget to go inside!
Find Time for Fika
Fika is a Swedish tradition of taking a break to enjoy a hot drink and a snack with others. The word fika is pronounced "fee-kuh" and can be used as a verb or a noun, none of which I knew before arriving in Stockholm. Nevertheless, consider me among the converted. Amazingly, this ritual is so deeply rooted that many companies require it as part of their culture, and I can understand why. It really is about taking a moment to decompress, unwind, and be in the moment, phones be damned. A café called Chokladkoppen on the main square is a wildly popular spot for fika, but there are many places in Gamla Stan that can serve as an excellent outpost, with most serving traditional fikabröd (fika bread), cinnamon buns, cookies, and cakes.
Explore the Royal Palace
The Royal Palace, a massive baroque building that’s still the official residence of the Swedish royal family, might also occupy an entire day, if you have the time. With over 600 rooms, it’s one of the largest palaces in Europe; I recommend the Royal Apartments and the Treasury, where you can see Sweden’s crown jewels. And if you’re there at the right time, don’t miss the changing of the guard ceremony — it’s a traditional show with music and marching soldiers. Pro Tip: Arrive early to beat the crowds. I also suggest buying a combined ticket, which includes entry to the Royal Apartments, the Treasury, and the Museum Tre Kronor, which tells the story of the original castle that once stood here. And take a little extra time to view the monuments and statues situated all around the palace; the complex is far larger than it first appears, and it would be easy to overlook some of its most beautiful treasures.
Take a Hike to Monteliusvagen
I made a concerted effort not to get caught up at the palace for too long as my time was limited, and the weather was absolutely prime for walking. I decided to head out in search of a grand viewpoint, which I found at Monteliusvagen, a walking path on the island of Södermalm (just south of Gamla Stan). The views here are sweeping and sublime, with a vantage over Lake Mälaren, Stockholm City Hall, and Riddarholmen. I kicked myself that I hadn’t planned to come out here at sunset or sunrise. Next time.
Omnipollos Hatt Brewery for Lunch and the Fotografiska Museum
Peckish, I decided to take in a bit of local craft culture for lunch. As I understand it, Omnipollos has several locations across the city; I decided on this one as my next destination was the photography museum. I grabbed a pint and a pizza and then continued my touring.
En route to the museum I happened upon Maria Square, where I found Tors Fiske, a group of bronze statues featuring Thor battling Jormungandr, the world serpent, while ancient lizards look on. This masterpiece by Anders Wissler was placed here in 1903. Awesome find.
I doubt it surprises anyone that I put the photography museum on my list, but this place should absolutely feature on every Stockholm itinerary. The contemporary art on display is engrossing, there are more than 20 exhibits that change regularly, the shop is a great place to pick up a unique souvenir, and the restaurant is one of the finest in the city, having won a Michelin Green Star for sustainability each year since 2020. As a bonus, you’re treated to some of the best views of the city from the bistro.
Get Lost at Sea, Kinda
For some reason I can’t wrap my head around the fact that Stockholm sits on a lake – it just feels like the city sits on the sea. But I digress. My plan was to catch the nearest ferry to the isle of Kastellholmen and explore Kastellet, which I eventually managed to do, but not before accidentally going in the wrong direction and stopping at several ferry terminals first. Great mistake, though: I was treated to some truly amazing views of Stockholm from a variety of vantage points on a cruise I otherwise would not have taken. Oh, and the citadel is beautiful, too. There were no crowds, and the fall colors were popping.
I walked back toward my hotel via Skeppsholmen, an island with several other worthy attractions, including Moderna Museet (contemporary art museum), the Stockholm Toy Museum, and the Svensksundsparken Park with its many sculptures. Take the pathway along the western flank of the island for spectacular views of the Old Town.
The Moderna Museet is worth a look at it features a collection of modern and contemporary art that includes works by Picasso and Dali, as well as Scandinavian artists.
Visit the Red House and Dine in Style
Röda Huset came to me by way of recommendation from a Swedish businessman seated next to me on my flight into Stockholm, and I’m glad I remembered to jot the name down. "The Red House" is in the red building overlooking the sunken public plaza called Sergels Torg, which gives it points for people peeping. It earns a gold star for its stunning seasonal cocktails that make the best of berries, carrots, and plums – and outstanding craft hooch curated by star bartender Hampus Thunholm. The menu, cleverly laid over a map of Sweden, is art unto itself, though I’d ask polite permission before running off with one to tack to your wall.
I would have happily eaten dinner at Röda Huset, but I had reservations to honor at Matbaren. Located in the glam Grand Hotel along the waterfront, Matbaren by Mathias Dahlgren is styled as a modern Scandinavian bistro, but that description does not do it justice. There’s a touch of northern Spanish flair to the small-bite style, an undeniable Nordic sensibility to the menu-in-a-sandbox presentation, and an upmarket undercurrent to the casual vibe. It all works perfectly. I tried several dishes, including raw fried (huh?) artichoke & Swedish squid; bleak roe from Bottenviken; butter-fried turbot; and a hot dog paired with an NA IPA. Staff were incredibly friendly an answered a dozen of my dumb questions about the menu as they walked me through perfect pairings and complimentary dishes.
I walked back towards my hotel along the waterfront and took in beautiful evening views of the Opera House, the Kungsträdgården park, and finally the famous Hemlös räv, or homeless fox statue that sits adjacent to the island housing Stockholm’s parliament house.
Day 2: Live Like a Very Polite Viking
Sheraton Stockholm -> Djurgården -> Viking Museum -> Vasa Museum -> Galärparken -> Skansen -> Waldemarsudde's Oil Mill -> Historiska Museet -> The Fishery -> Pippi Longstocking -> Södermalm -> Sparrow Bistro -> Lucy’s Flower Shop -> Sheraton Stockholm
Chart Your Course to Djurgården
The island of Djurgården was the private outdoor playground of King Erik XIV during the 16th century but is now the home to many of Stockholm’s most popular attractions, including the Gröna Lund amusement park, ABBA Museum, Skansen Open Air Museum, a sprawling sculpture garden, and the Royal National City Park. Djurgården is also home to the Viking and Vasa museums, my first stops of the day.
Tour the Viking and Vasa Museums
First, let me say that while the Viking Museum gets some negative press for its size (its small), its collection (there are relatively few authentic artifacts), and its aesthetic (it looks like it’s housed in a fish packing facility), I enjoyed it. I enjoyed the quirky “boat ride” at the beginning, the pop culture exhibit at the end, and the info packed into the exhibitions. I also LOVED the illustrated panels depicting the ancient Norse gods. The curators have clearly worked hard to make this museum approachable and family friendly, and I laud them for that. But I will caveat this by saying that if you’re going to make time for the Viking Museum you must absolutely make time for the Swedish History Museum, where you’ll find some of the most spectacular Viking-age archaeological finds located anywhere in the world. More on the Historiska Museet later.
A visit to the Vasa, however, is not up for debate. Just go. The museum preserves “the world's only preserved 17th century ship,” which is actually quite astonishing if you consider how prevalent naval vessels were at the time. The Vasa, an awe-inspiring 64-gun warship, capsized and sank in 1628 and was not salvaged for more than three centuries. The scale of the Vasa is somewhat staggering – the fact that ships of this size were being built more than 300 years ago without the aid of modern tools or tech is mind-blowing. There are four other museum ships moored in the harbor: the ice breaker Sankt Erik (launched 1915), the lightvessel Finngrundet (1903), the torpedo boat Spica (1966) and the rescue boat Bernhard Ingelsson (1944). Keep in mind that the Vasa Museum is the most visited museum in all of Scandinavia, so there will be crowds if you visit in the middle of the day.
Save Time to Explore the Park
The Vasa is surrounded by a sprawling green space called Galärparken, with plenty more to see. There are statues and sculptures here, a memorial park called Estoniaminnesvården, a cemetery called Galärvarvskyrkogården, a garden, and several other museums, including the Nordic Museum, known for its massive sculpture of King Gustav Vasa, and the Museum of Spirits – alcohol, not ghosts. Still great.
I enjoyed my time at the Vasa and wish I had doubled down on the combo ticket for the Vrak – Museum of Wrecks, also on Djurgården, but there were several other stops I had planned for the day.
You’ll notice also that the ABBA Museum doesn’t feature on this itinerary. Why? Because I don’t like ABBA. My mom does, but she wasn’t on this trip with me. If you’re a fan you should go – I hear it’s great. But I wasn’t going to risk an ear worm with so little time left in Sweden. ABBA can be found a short walk from the Vasa along the promenade.
Persevere for Another Museum or Two
I’ll be honest and tell you that by this time I had had nearly all the museum exploring I could take, but I knew that I’d kick myself if I didn’t make time for at least a couple more of Djurgården’s attractions. I knew that Skansen is the world’s oldest open-air museum and does a great job of showcasing Sweden’s cultural history, with reconstructed historic buildings and people dressed in traditional attire demonstrating crafts like glassblowing and weaving. I also knew that Skansen features a zoo with lynx and reindeer and other native animals, but I have mixed feelings on zoos and knew I’d give this one a pass. I decided instead to pay a quick visit to the Baltic Sea Science Center and wrap my visit to Djurgården with a stop at the Prins Eugens Art Museum and the nearby Waldemarsudde's oil mill, an iconic structure that has featured in Swedish art for centuries.
I told you that if you visited the Viking Museum you had to stop in at the Historiska Museet, and when you do you won’t be disappointed. This museum, with a collection of 10 million artifacts, regularly displays 6,500 pieces, including some of the most important Viking-age finds ever collected. The golden collars made from Roman coins are among the most popular, and you’ll also find the Söderala weathervane, the 8th century Mästermyr tool chest, Rällinge statue, the Kylver stone, the Torslunda plates, Vendel helmets and much, much more. If you love Viking history, make sure to set aside several hours to explore.
Enjoy a Well-Deserved Lunch Break
By this time, I was famished and planned to have lunch at the highly regarded Backfikan, a restaurant near the Opera House known for husmanskost, a term for Swedish comfort food. Unfortunately, Backfikan was closed for an event, so I had to pivot. I ended up at The Fishery, a neat fast-casual joint not far from my hotel and located in a busy commercial part of the city.
After lunch I took some time to window shop through several nearby pedestrian streets and learned that Pippi Longstocking, a character my grandmother would occasionally talk about when I was a kid, was created in Sweden! I picked up a doll for my daughter and caught myself wondering whether she would be thrilled or absolutely terrified by the thing. I learned that I am not built for sleek Scandinavian jeans or slacks, and that wool toques are cheap and plentiful in this beautiful country.
A Trip to Trendy Södermalm
I read that Södermalm was a fun place to explore and so I headed back down that way (I was close when I visited the photography museum). Södermalm is known for its trendy bars, vintage shops, and creative vibe, as well as a restaurant called Meatballs for the People – yet I am ashamed to admit that not only did I miss this place, I also did not have a single Swedish meatball on this trip! Another reason to come back for a second visit. For the record, Meatballs for the People dishes traditional goods, but also unique stuff like reindeer and wild boar paired with lingonberry jam and mashed potatoes.
Södermalm’s SoFo district, short for “South of Folkungagatan,” is an artsy area filled with quirky bars and boutiques. Mosebacketerrassen is a great spot for a drink and views of the city. I also checked out the Galleri Örhänget art gallery, and some massive public art, including the mural Muralmålning Os Gêmeos and the La Mano monument.
Dine at Sparrow Bistro
I didn’t have dinner plans at first – my mission was to grab a cocktail and then seek out a local recommendation – but I happened upon Sparrow Bistro and was thrilled that I did. Attached to the hip Sparrow Boutique Hotel, the Sparrow Wine Bar & Bistro serves French-inspired cuisine with a dash of Nordic zest. This makes sense as the bistro is the brainchild of Staffan Naess and Mathias Dahlgren, Dahlgren being the same genius behind Matbaren. Unfussy and vibrant, I enjoyed my meal here and highly recommend the lobster bisque, as well as the gnudi mushroom, a spin on gnocchi (I think!) with Jerusalem artichoke, baked egg yolk, vin jaune, and truffle.
Find the Perfect Bouquet at Lucy’s Flower Shop
This bar is so great I don’t even know where to begin. Imagine cracking a neon tube over your head and walking through a velvet curtain onto a dark stage and you’ll understand the vibe. Several booths are deep and mysterious. The bar goes on forever. The rye and apple was one of the best cocktails I’ve ever had in my life. I would live here if I could.
WHAT DID I MISS?
Lots! Stockholm is a huge, sprawling city, and there was no way that two days was going to be enough. There are several other spots I wanted to visit and just didn’t have time for, including:
Östermalms Saluhall
One of the city’s oldest markets, historic hall packed with stalls selling everything from cured salmon to reindeer jerky.
Sunset Cruise
There just wasn’t enough time to prioritize a sunset cruise on this trip, but after seeing a few of the islands firsthand, one of the things I’ll for sure next time is book a sunset cruise through the archipelago.
Metro Station Art
I wish that I had spent more time exploring the metro and taking in the art; I only made time for a few stations, but it would have been great to experience more of the “world’s longest art gallery.”
Millesgården Museum
An art museum and sculpture garden, located on the island of Lidingö, was just a little too far off my path to visit on this trip. Next time!
Skogskyrkogården
Skogskyrkogården is a cemetery located in the Gamla Enskede district south of central Stockholm, Sweden. It was inaugurated in 1920 and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1994.
If you can think of anything else I missed, or suggestions for my next visit please feel free to add it to the comments.
THE DETAILS
Currency: Swedish Krona (SEK)
- I exclusively used the digital wallet on my phone in Stockholm and didn’t even bother to take cash out at an ATM. Stockholm appears to be nearly cashless.
When To Go: Fall
- I’m basing this recommendation on the fact that I did indeed visit in the fall. It was busy, but not overly crowded. The weather was pleasant for wandering and walking.
Hotel: Sheraton Stockholm
- Iconic property, centrally located, with excellent service and a very good restaurant on site.
Best Time to Visit Stockholm
The best time to visit Stockholm is late spring to early fall, from May to September. During these months, the weather is mild, and daylight stretches longer, especially in June and July when "Midsummer" celebrations are in full swing. This period also brings vibrant outdoor festivals, open-air concerts, and markets, making it ideal for exploring the city’s islands, parks, and waterfront areas. If you're interested in experiencing Stockholm’s magical winter vibe, December is lovely too, with festive holiday lights, Christmas markets, and the chance to see the city under a light dusting of snow.
Getting Around Stockholm
I walked everywhere in Stockholm, and when I wasn’t walking, I was on a water ferry. Otherwise, the best way to get around Stockholm is by using its efficient and extensive public transportation system, which includes metro trains (Tunnelbana), buses, and trams. The metro is particularly convenient for reaching major attractions. For a scenic journey between islands, ferries provide beautiful waterfront views and connect popular spots like Djurgården and Gamla Stan. A 24- or 72-hour SL travel card gives unlimited access to all public transit, making it great value for sightseeing. Bike rentals are a popular option in warmer months, with dedicated bike lanes throughout the city.
Where to Stay in Stockholm
1. Hotel Rival (Södermalm)
Located in the trendy Södermalm district, Hotel Rival is a stylish boutique hotel with an artsy, retro feel, once owned by ABBA’s Benny Andersson. Its central location makes it perfect for exploring Stockholm’s nightlife, cafes, and vintage shops. Rooms are cozy and well-equipped, and the hotel has its own popular bar and restaurant.
2. Nobis Hotel (Norrmalm)
Nobis Hotel, located in the heart of Stockholm on Norrmalmstorg Square, offers a luxurious stay with chic, Scandinavian design. This five-star hotel is ideal for those wanting a more upscale experience within walking distance of attractions like the Royal Palace and shopping in Östermalm. The hotel’s sleek decor and amenities make it both sophisticated and comfortable.
3. Hotel Skeppsholmen (Skeppsholmen Island)
For a more relaxed and scenic stay, Hotel Skeppsholmen is a peaceful, eco-friendly hotel on a small island close to the city center. It’s housed in a charming 17th-century building and offers lovely waterfront views, spacious rooms, and easy access to the Moderna Museet. This is a perfect choice if you’re looking to be near cultural sites but prefer a quieter atmosphere.
Quick Travel Tips for Stockholm
1. Get an SL Travel Card: Stockholm’s public transport is efficient and easy to navigate. Grab a 24- or 72-hour SL travel card for unlimited rides on the metro, buses, trams, and ferries — it’s the best way to get around the city and access all the major attractions.
2. Embrace Fika: Swedes take coffee breaks seriously, so make time for fika, the Swedish coffee and pastry ritual, at least once a day. Cafes all over the city offer delicious cinnamon buns (kanelbullar) and coffee, making for a perfect break between sightseeing.
3. Pack for All Weather: Stockholm’s weather can be changeable, even in summer, so bring layers and a light rain jacket. You’ll be prepared for everything from sunny walks in Djurgården to unexpected rain showers.
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